Dept of Culture opened only a year ago in the Brooklyn neighbourhood of Bedford-Stuyvesant, not far from the former Civil Service Café where Balogun organised his first pop-up dinners during the pandemic. (Balogun's parents were civil servants, hence the name.) Tiny but elegant, Dept of Culture only has one communal table and a counter with four stools. It can host just 16 people a night, and it's booked for months in advance.
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